Steal my itinerary: Banff, Canada
I’ve always thought of Banff National Park in Alberta, Canada, as a ski and snowboard destination but I was wrong. Winter isn’t even the most popular time of year to visit.
This town of about 8,000 is most popular during the summer, when the lakes thaw to a glacial blue and hiking trails come to life. July and August are the park’s busiest months. Hikers, cyclers and vacationers come here to enjoy the scenery and reconnect with nature.
I visited in early April, catching the tail end of ski season. I took a ski lesson at the Lake Louise Ski Resort, rode the Banff Gondola to the top of Sulphur Mountain, soaked in the Banff Upper Springs and went on an evening hike through a canyon.
I didn’t expect to be so charmed by this place, but I’m already counting down to my next trip.
Things To Do In Banff:
There are plenty of things to do in Banff regardless of when you’re visiting. Go skiing, snowboarding or snow tubing in the winter. Go hiking, mountain biking or trail runs you’ll never forget in the summer.
Learn about indigenous history at the Buffalo Nations Museum or take an indigenous medicine walk at Cascade Ponds. Reconnect with nature and yourself during a forest bathing session.
I was surprised at how much I enjoyed forest bathing with Original Path Wellness Experiences, even with snow on the ground. It really was nice to do nothing at the edge of a beautiful forest, listening to birds chirp without my phone in hand.
I also sampled vodka, rye and gin from the Park Distillery, ate my way around the world without leaving the center of town, soaked in the hot water at Banff Upper Springs and took a ride on the Banff Gondola to check out the view from the top of Sulphur Mountain.
What To Eat In Banff:
Banff is the creative foodie town I didn’t know I was looking for. This is a place where independent restaurants are thriving and chains are few and far between. There are a few staples— a McDonald’s, a Starbucks and an A&W in town, but with so many other options you might not have time to hit any of them. I know I didn’t.
I went to these spots instead and would go back to Banff to eat some of these meals again.
Nourish Bistro
This cozy vegetarian has a creative international menu that serves up everything from 23-ingredient nachos to pasta, seitan-based comfort food and more. It has an exquisite cocktail list, a great soundtrack and a fun earthy vibe.
Zyka
Banff’s newest Indian restaurant brings the spice and takes Indian buffet up a notch with freshly baked naan served to your table. There’s an even more affordable take-out option and lots of space, making it perfect for large groups.
Indian Curry House
The last thing I expected to find in Banff was a perfect paper dosa, but that’s exactly what I found here. This spot has a broad menu of South and North Indian dishes and mountain views from some tables.
Shoku Izakaya
This izakaya is a whole vibe. The ceiling is designed to look like a fish’s spine. The dishes are creative and fuse a variety of styles and flavors from around the world. Go for the skewers but stay for the miso maple crème brûlée.
Bluebird
This place has perfected the art of brunch though it’s also a steakhouse. It looks and feels like a European ski chalet but serves up cozy North American favorites against a gorgeous backdrop guaranteed to help you relax.
Anejo
Having grown up in Texas, I take Mexican food seriously. I was skeptical but blown away by the vegetarian options, the flavor and the tequila selection. There’s even table-side guacamole service.
Park Distillery
This is a distillery, bar and restaurant. I didn’t eat here, but I did do a spirit tasting. I liked the espresso vodka, vanilla vodka and gin. Time your visit around happy hour for drink specials and plan to check a bag on the way home. You’ll want to bring home a bottle and certain varieties are only sold in Banff National Park.
Where To Stay In Banff:
Staying in Banff can get expensive, especially if you’re traveling at peak times. This is a town within a National Park, and that means there are limited accommodation options. You should budget a minimum of $200 a night for accommodations, more if you’re looking for a luxury property or to travel at peak times like the summer holidays.
For the best views: Rimrock Hotel
The Rimrock Resort Hotel is a four-star property perched on the side of Sulphur Mountain just a short walk from the Banff Upper Springs and Banff Gondola. This hotel has multiple onsite restaurants, a gym, a spa and spacious rooms, most with mountain views and jetted bathtubs. If you want to have breakfast in the mountains overlooking the fairytale Fairmont Banff Springs castle, this is the hotel for you.
For ultimate luxury: Fairmont Banff Springs
The Fairmont Banff Springs is the most expensive and luxurious hotel in Banff. This castle in the Rocky Mountains has a golf course in the summer and offers easy access to skiing in the winter. Because it has more than 700 rooms, this is a popular hotel for meetings and conferences. It has several onsite dining options, including an elegant afternoon tea and the option to dine in private outdoor domes, and a massive spa with a fitness center and pool.
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Things to know:
You can rent a car and drive yourself, but you don’t have to. Take the Banff Airporter shuttle from the airport to your Banff Hotel, then you can use public transit and local taxis to get around.
The local bus system is called Roam Transit. Routes 1 and 2 will take you to most local hotels, ski shuttle pickup points and sights.
There’s no Uber or Lyft. inside Banff National Park. There is a local taxi company. You can reach a dispatcher at +1-403-762-0000 to schedule a ride.
The local currency is Canadian dollars but everyone except the local busses took credit cards and Apple Pay, even for small amounts.
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